KISO SAWARA OHITSU – WOODEN RICE KEEPER, 3 GO

An ohitsu is where Japanese rice goes after the pot. Move freshly cooked rice into it and the wood draws off the excess steam, so the grains stay plump and separate instead of turning wet; as it cools the sweetness comes forward, and rice that is an hour old still tastes right. This one is hand-planed from Kiso sawara cypress in Nagano, a wood with a mild scent that lets the rice's own flavor through, and with the water and acid resistance to hold sushi rice as well. Twisted copper hoops bind the staves. The inside of the base is rounded so a paddle scoops cleanly and water does not pool. Holds up to 3 go, the right size for a household table.

Before first use, fill with the cloudy water from rinsing rice and leave for about three hours, then rinse and dry in the shade. Wash with salt or a powder cleanser, never detergent; dry in the shade; store with the lid off, wrapped in cloth. Not for the dishwasher or dish dryer.